Microclimate (Garden)

•Microclimates are areas that offer unique growing conditions relative to the broader agricultural zone where they’re located. From rain, air flow, the positions of fences and buildings, and a variety of other factors create microclimates in your yard- 🌡Places where temperatures are several degrees higher or lower than overall air temperature

•The conditions of microclimates are determined by plant orientation and exposure to heat, light, water, and wind

•Selecting edible plants that prefer the unique conditions of a specific microclimate will mean better yields and less effort.

•although any single species may tolerate only a limited range of climate strongly contrasting microclimates in close proximity provide a total environment in which many species of flora and fauna can coexist and interact.

•👩🏾‍🌾city gardeners may successfully grow plants recommended for a warmer zone because of the additional heat known “Urban heat islands"🔥🔥.Occurres when cities replace natural land cover with dense concentrations of pavement, buildings, and other surfaces that absorb and retain heat.

Examples:

•Yards with LARGE BOULDERS, ROCKS, CONCRETE DRIVEWAYS, or SIDEWALKS : These dense surfaces/objects absorb heat from the sun during the day and slowly release their heat at night, making the ground immediately around them warmer. Potentially extend the growing season of plants placed immediately next to them

•LOW SPOTS - Plants that love moist soil ( example: celery , parsley, chicken weed, etc.) should be planted in these areas and will grow exceptionally well in cool months of spring and fall

•SLOPES tend to have poorer soil and lower soil moisture since water and nutrients run off downhill. deep-rooted plants and/or perennials are best for slopes since their roots can run deep to mine nutrition, and stabilize the landscape.

•CREEKS, BOGS, PONDS - Wet and cooler than other areas.

🧭SOUTH: Put Early vegetables near the south wall of a house or building. The wall provides protection from north winds and it absorbs solar heat (do to getting first sun) throughout the day and releases it to the plants at night;Open areas will more quickly reach temperatures necessary for seed germination

-WEST: Place early-spring and late-fall crops on the west facing slope. They’ll get early morning shade then afternoon sun (that’s made even warmer and brighter by the radiative heat and light reflected off of the siding) along with the last of the suns heat each day❗️ In the summer put in plants that can handle the intense heat and light.🥶If frost strikes overnight, they will fall more slowly, preventing tissue damage.

in the fall and winter, the morning sun gets to west side a little earlier and the extra heat helps keep garden beds a significant degrees warmer than other spots on a sunny day.

-EAST: Put plants that like morning sun and afternoon shade; Heat-sensitive salad greens that would wilt in the afternoon sun will also grow well here in the spring/summer

-NORTH: receives less solar energy and can be considerably colder and often wetter